All stories about "Nizza"
Week in Reviews: Mas Gets the Deuce
Kalina, 09/07/05
Bruni re-reviews four year-old West Village spot Mas, and upgrades it from one to two stars. It's just as graceful and energetic as when it first opened, but now the food is more nuanced and interesting:
"...there are restaurants with every bit as much vim and vanity after years on the scene as they had when they unveiled themselves, and Mas is a great example.Franktastic doesn't give Mas the old three because it isn't as "thrilling" as it could be (especially at those prices). Yet: "Four years along, the restaurant is still making fans. More than ever, it deserves them." [NYT] Mia Dona to the Fourth Power, Merkato 55, the Elsewhere, next.>>...It’s an example, too, of the favors that age can bestow on a restaurant, or rather the way a restaurant can use age to its advantage. In growing older Mas has indeed grown wiser. Its talented chef, Galen Zamarra, is making better decisions and his kitchen operates with more discipline than in 2004, when I gave the restaurant one star...
...For the most part this isn’t a restaurant for diners with big, blunt appetites. It’s for those who revel in little surprises and unexpected nuances, like the smoked celery root purée that came with grilled turbot one January night."
The Dish: Nizza, Irving Mill, & Dell'anima
Let's Dish up some recent restaurant openings for your weekend dining pleasure, shall we?
1) Nizza: Above, courtesy of an alert reader, we see Hell's Kitchen Italian newcomer Nizza, which officially opened its doors last night after a week or so of previews. A few choice phrases from the PR materials: "...one gets a certain sense of the chef as anthropologist at work here...the menu sports 9 sections—its up to the diner—its always up to the diner—to create his or own prefect experience; and none will lack for subject matter... Nizza is a casual boite 'modly' designed with fixtures that seem to come at you from all angles." And early word from our photographer: "I'm no food expert but it was delicious." 630 Ninth Ave between 44th and 45th Sts; (212) 956-1800 [Eater Inbox]
2) Irving Mill: Here's a fun game: choose which email newsletter filed the most over-the-top announcement of the opening of Irving Mill, a no-doubt-pleasant seasonal New American eatery east of Union Square. Your nominees: RareDaily ("The timely concept. The perfect location. The pedigreed chef"), StrongBuzz ("I must personally thank owners Sue, Mario and Sergio Riva for opening Irving Mill just a few short steps from my front door"), JuliB ("unlike rip, you won't be able to fall asleep"). Early edge to RareDaily. 116 E 16th St between Park Ave South and Irving Pl; (212) 254-1600 [All & Sundry]
3) Dell'anima: This spot, which snuck in sort-of under the radar, opened Wednesday under the direction of Gabriel Thompson, a former chef at Le Bernardin. The food shall be Italian. 38 Eighth Ave at Jane St; (212) 366-6633 [FloFab]
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