In lieu of his review this week the Cuozz has a slam for all those absent chefs and 'consulting' chefs, the Pelaccios, the Samuelssons, the Ducasses, in New York: "The frenzy for rock-star glory has propelled your favorite culinary god out of the kitchen into far-ranging quests for TV, cookbook and 'branding' deals in Las Vegas and beyond...today, kitchen-aversion has infected much lesser talents and pops up at restaurants where the chef is MIA almost from Day One." [NYP]

MEATPACKING DISTRICT— Multiple reliable sources indicate that Marcus Samuelsson has parted ways with Merkato 55, a restaurant that he's spent the last year touting as his own—as a special, first-of-its-kind tribute to a cuisine very close to his heart. He's taken credit for dreaming up the concept and creating the menu, and was credited— as recently as four days ago— with this being his way of bringing African cuisine to New York. He said to Eater in June, "I'm doing important things here." That was then, this is now, we'll go ahead and suppose. While Merkato 55's spokespeople had no official comment on the move, Samuelsson's name is suddenly nowhere to be found on the Merkato 55 website, nor is the restaurant listed among the projects of Samuelsson's Townhouse Restaurant Group.
Continue reading "Marcus Samuelsson Divorces Merkato 55, Ends Epic Charade"SF site YumSugar interviews Merkato 55's Marcus Samuelsson, and while they don't get any major reveals out of the guy, we do find out something about his favorite chef in America: "Samuelsson feels Rocco is tragically misunderstood by the food industry. He believes Rocco is the best chef in America and is sad that one teeny mistake ruined his reputation as a chef. He's also confident that Rocco has what it takes to make a come back." [YumSugar]
Every day this week we will feature a Shitshow Week Review, a new assessment of a restaurant that at first glance seemed totally and completely off the rails. To give these places a fair shake, we revisited to pass a new judgment. The fundamental question: shitshow or not a shitshow?

For the inaugural review of Shitshow Week, the Eater Shitshow Assessment Team (ESAT) headed to the Meatpacking District's Merkato 55 on a Friday night at 9 p.m. to see just how the service, food, scene, and all the rest held up at "Marcus Sameulsson's" pan-African behemoth. Deathwatching of this bad boy was inevitable, and it entered the hospice officially after Bruni's one star review. But is it a full blown off the rails, honest to God shitshow?
More on food, service, and the final judgment ahead.>>
We already knew superstar chef Marcus Samuelsson had a line of pots and pans, but we didn't see the packaging on the things until today. Really Marcus, is that how you're playing this? Even Mario leaves his mug off his products. Yet, it's working on some people: "They are handsome and sexy...these pots and pans, which come with a photo of handsome Marcus on the box, make cooking into something sexy." [Super Chef]
Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Merkato 55, the Meatpacking District restaurant in which the Sweedish Sensation, Marcus Samuelsson, is loosely involved. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:
Zero Stars: 6-1On average, Merkato 55 has gotten the middle number of stars from most critics. Two from Platt, two-five from Danyelle Freeman, three (of six) from Randall Lane. At best, it's great and at its worst, it's only a little more pleasant than Chinese water torture. It's plagued by a management structure that has Samuelsson there less than he should be (he's said to own a single-digit percentage of the restaurant) and promoters Kyky and Unik around too much (they've got some sort of management/promotion deal). The extent to which these various forces showed themselves during Bruni visits will prove the deciding factor this week. If dudeski was spotted and the house kept things on the rails, he probably liked the place very much. If he wasn't and they didn't, the zilch train isn't out of the question. And ergo thusly therefore, the all-in for us today is that Merkato is consistency-deficient. It has its two star moments, but not quite enough of them. Bookie, Eater is rolling with one star for Merkato 55, not altogether certain it's the right move, however (see also, the two star bet).
One Star: 2-1 √√
Two Stars: 3-1
Three Stars: 9-1
Four Stars: 25,000-1
√√ denotes the Eater bet.
Bonus: If it gets two stars, the Merkato bar around 10:30 PM is going to be a good time. If not, still could be a worthwhile stop. We'll see you there, Baltz.
Aquavit's Marcus Samelsson, chef of many projects, has finally made the next logical step in his career: cookware. Bottled sauces and spices can't be too far behind. Called Marcus, the sets are described as "handsome and elegant...like the chef." Plus they come with bonus material: "The 8 and 10-piece sets come with a DVD, in which Marcus cooks Chocolate Pancakes, Beef Stir Fry & Couscous, and Shrimp Piri Piri, while extolling the virtues of his cookware." [SuperChef]
This is the Thursday Opening Report, a new regular feature that will provide the precise status of venues reported as open elsewhere. As per standard operating procedure around here, your contributions are so very welcome.

Let's start out with the listings from the second half of the week, and then we'll revisit the venues from Monday's Report:
1) Midtown West: South Gate, the new restaurant going into the Jumeirah Essex House and cheffed by 11 Madison Park's Kerry Heffernan was listed in the New York Times as opening Friday. The $10 million project, designed by Tony Chi, was originally predicted to debut later this month, but looks like they're ahead of sched. Status: Bar and lounge opening tonight; restaurant tomorrow. 160 Central Park South; 212-484-4719 [NYT]
2) Midtown East: New 60-seat Spanish restaurant on East 50th Street Islero was listed in Strongbuzz, Thrillist, TONY, and the Times as opening tonight, and a call to the restaurant confirms. Festivities start at 5pm. Status: opening tonight. 247 East 50th Street; 212-752-1414 [Strongbuzz]
3) West Village: Commerce, the new restaurant to replace Grange Hall, was listed both by us last week and by Daily Candy as opening tonight. And calls confirm we're both on the money. Status: opening tonight. 50 Commerce Street; 212-524-2301 [Daily Candy]
Updates on Monday's listings ahead. >>
[Kalina, 02/06/08]
This here is Merkato 55, Marcus Samuelsson's much hyped, somewhat delayed homage to Africa. It finally opens tomorrow. The most recent, and with any luck the last, giant themed venture to open in MePa, this baby has two floors with 150 seats, a rum bar, a "kidogo," or small plates, bar, a communal dining area downstairs, and a formal dining room upstairs. The interior was designed by Dutch architect Menno Schmitz, and "African" decor accents include giant silk screened portraits (below), hanging basket lamps, and a whole helluva lot of yellow and brown.
Samuelsson's got his pedigree and track record going for him here, so Merkato opens with the benefit of the doubt. But daddy's opening a huge restaurant straight into an economic shitshow and he's not even showing up for the opening (Aquavit Stockholm is more important). On the other hand, promoter/operators "Kyky and Unik" are also involved—as owners, per their own claims (but if having intel on opening schedule is any indicator of equity stake, they've got about .001% combined). If anyone can fill the place, maybe it's them. Maybe.
This is the Monday Opening Report, a new regular feature that will provide the precise status of venues reported as open elsewhere. As per standard operating procedure around here, your contributions are so very welcome.

Merkato 55; Status; Not Open
1) Meatpacking: NYMag isn't the first to list Merkato 55, Marcus Samuelsson's North African big box, as open and it probably won't be the last. UrbanDaddy listed it a month ago, and this is one we've been watching, of course. But the Robs are placing their bets on this week. Status: Not Open; Official Word says "probably Thursday or Friday". 55 Gansevoort St.; 212-255-8555 [NYM]
2) Nolita: Here's an exciting one. We heard from a tipster on Friday and then confirmed with the BK outfit that Gimme Coffee has opened a new location on Mott St. Workers told us the new store was giving away coffee for a week to "get to know the neighbors" but got its official paperwork Thursday night. Daily Candy has the first official write up. Status: Certified Open. 228 Mott Street; 212-226-4011 [Daily Candy]

Merkato 55, circa 1/17/08.
Initial projections had Merkato 55, Marcus Samuelsson's gargantuan North African restaurant, opening in last September; then it was December/January, then last week. And now, various reports indicate that it'll be open in early February. Someone we spoke to who has been inside says it's ready to roll—paint dried, murals complete, wood work installed, sidewalk lighting hung. So, then, what's the hold up?

MIDTOWN—We begin with our Friends at the Department of Heath, clearly eager to assert themselves in '08 as they did in '07. A tipster sends the above photo and this note: "Little-known Midtown sushi mainstay Naniwa (46th betw 5th and Mad) was shut down by the DOH on the 2nd of January. Building official says it was a long time coming and that a bribery charge is suspected." [EaterWire Inbox]
MEATPACKING—While the kids at Urbandaddy have reason to believe that chef Marcus Samuelsson's new joint, Merktao 55, is opening next Wednesday, official sources say that's a flat-out non-fact. End of next week at the very earliest, according to Baltz Co., the PR firm of record for the 'African pan-fusion' restaurant. The staff roster sill has some holes, for example, and while the kitchen is now operational, it ain't ready for the big show in MePa just yet. [EaterWire]
UrbanDaddy has it that Merkato 55, Marcus Samuelsson's new MePa African joint, will open next Wednesday, which means it'll definitely be open by the end of the month. More: "Based on Samuelsson's revelatory food trip to Africa, Merkato is the latest multi-story continent-defining food temple run amok. Walk into the lively first floor and you'll immediately notice the Mali-inspired clay bar with shelves for the house-infused spiced rums. Start with a drink and a plate of hummus and dips at one of the communal tables before heading up the wrought iron stairs to the more formal dining room." [UrbanDaddy]

Above, the shuttered Sascha space on Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District, its signs still swaying sadly in the fading light of a snowy Friday afternoon. But lo! Inside, work is well underway on chef Marcus Samuelsson's forthcoming Merkato. (Good thing, insofar as initial plans called for a September opening.) Per FloFab back in June, "The name is that of the largest food market in Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia. He will offer his interpretation of dishes from all over Africa, with forays into Brazil and the Caribbean."
And to emphasize that, he's got quite a mural underway, as we saw this afternoon. >>
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