All stories about "Elettaria"

Week in Reviews: Onespot for Elettaria

Krieger, 3/2/08

Mr. Frank Bruni weighs in on Akhtar Nawab and Noel Cruz's East 8th Street experiment Elettaria and gives it the old onespot. It's cute, it's darling, and the food is somtimes good. But the design just does not work for the Brunz.

"Elettaria doesn’t work as well practically as it does visually. A lack of any real division between the dining room and an open kitchen means that you have to step into the kitchen and sometimes even squeeze past a cook to descend to those restrooms

...The ostensibly individual tables bisecting the dining room are essentially one way-too-long communal table, which makes for odd traffic patterns.

...Elettaria is lovely but awkward, and its awkwardness undercuts Mr. Nawab’s impressively creative cooking. But then his cooking also undercuts itself, some dishes mirroring the setting: seductive in the abstract, less so in actuality."

And of course the Bruni never misses a chance to have a little fun: "...when every second restaurant calls itself 'market-driven,' Elettaria describes itself as “spice-driven.” (I’m waiting for the restaurant that’s driven by Morgan Freeman.)" [NYT]

Pans for Ago & Palm Court and the Elsewhere up next.>>

What to Order: West Village

Welcome to What to Order, a new feature where we pick three new restaurants in one neighborhood and find out what the critics, the average diners, and the staff recommend. Tried any dishes from a new restaurant that blew you away? Let us know.

Krieger, 2/19/08

Commerce
The critic pick:
From the Bruni: "The kitchen did right, however, by sweet potato tortelloni, which were showered with hazelnuts and pomegranate seeds, and mushroom and Fontina ravioli, which were bathed in a Parmesan emulsion....Beautifully cooked red snapper was placed in a gorgeous broth in which lemon grass, curry, coconut milk and saffron all wafted in and out of the picture..."

The user review:
From Eater comments: "We shared tortelloni and escargot, then the chicken for 2. Best chicken I've eaten in NYC. It's served with what they call 'stuffing', but they are actually crunchy, chewy, salty, savory, lardon and foie gras enhanced bread cubes. LOVED it."

The staff rec:
From the reservationist: "We have market specials that change every day that are always good. Personally I love the chicken for two."

Bar Q and Elettaria ahead.>>

Week in Reviews: Merkato 55 Gets the One

Kalina, 2/6/08

Frantastic makes his way over to MePa this week to weigh in on the already heavily-reviewed Marcus Samuelsson project, Merkato 55. There are a few highlights, but for the most part Bruni's review of "Spice Market on the Serengeti" reads like a pan, and he deems the pan-African behemoth worthy of one star:

"...it’s not just geographically that Merkato 55 is all over the map. The menu mingles inspiration with too many hedges: the tuna tartar...a lobster salad...a thinly veiled steak frites; a rack of lamb — supposedly graced with an Ethiopian berbere spice mixture, including garlic, red pepper, cardamom and fenugreek — that could be any restaurant’s rack of lamb.

...In the worst case, the African breads we ordered never came. The pauses between courses stretched forever...a server accidentally poured water into my stemless glass of unfinished white wine...These lapses undercut the restaurant’s significant promise and many New Yorkers’ rightly high hopes for it."

But Frank hasn't given up hope. His closer implies it's just a work in progress: "This entree is a delight in the making, provided it gets some more tinkering and attention, and that is the story of Merkato 55 as well." [NYT]

Elettaria to the max, The Knot, and oh so much more, next.>>





Week in Reviews: Adour Gets the Tres

This week Bruni files his highly anticipated assessment of Adour, Alain Ducasse's second attempt to woo New York. And while Ducasse's restaurant at Essex House provided just the kind of fussiness that Franktastic is known to loathe, this toned down version earns three stars:

"Now Mr. Ducasse is taking a new chance. He’s also possibly making amends, or at least that was my thought when, during my first dinner at Adour Alain Ducasse in the St. Regis New York, I spotted the little bagel. It came with and sat beside a sublime cauliflower velouté, having nothing, really, to do with it. So why was it there? Maybe as a peace offering, half genuine and half winking.

...Some diners have responded with yawns...If Adour is dull, it’s dull mainly in the context of what Mr. Ducasse previously attempted and what New Yorkers previously resisted. Can the man win? I think so, and I consider Adour a qualified victory. It’s not through-and-through rapturous, but it’s first-rate..."

And what of the fancy wine bar that got so much buzz when Adour opened? "I never found a spot at that altar. With just four seats, it has limited utility. It’s all about flash, proving that some of the old Ducasse still lives in the new." [NYT]

Richman and Sietsema get Cheeky, and the Elsewhere, ahead.>>

Week in Reviews: Chop Suey One Starred, Platt Gives Four to Ko

Bruni reviews the Renaissance Marriott's Chop Suey this week to see what consultants Zak Pelaccio and Will Goldfarb dreamed up for the menu. He spends the majority of his word count bashing the food, but according to Frankeriffic, the view of glorious Times Square alone merits one star:

"But we’d be sitting in a room that was New York all the way, its glass walls pressed up against the signature glow of Times Square....We’d be dazzled, at least by the scenery. And by the cooking? Well, our reaction might fall more along the lines of puzzlement, because Chop Suey, which mingles Korean and other Asian traditions, is an uneven mash of inspiration and clumsiness.

...But sometimes food isn’t the primary consideration in deciding where to eat, and some restaurants have persuasive charms beyond the perimeter of the plate. Chop Suey is all about setting, a second-floor perch in the Renaissance Hotel that juts like a ship’s prow into a bold, brash sea of light."

And of course the Bruni doesn't pass on the chance to make a dig at the famous chef consultants: "The erratic results underscore the question of just how engaged such consultants get: of whether, once they’ve lofted a few ideas and cashed their paychecks, they feel any real pride of ownership or bother to follow through. I have my doubts." [NYT]

Ko, Ago, and the Elsewhere, one click away

Week in Reviews: Bar Boulud Gets the Deuce

Kalina, 1/4/07

The Bruni stops in at Bar Boulud this week, slaps down a two spot, and spends most of his word count raving about the charcuterie, swooning over the wine list, and justifying the boring food:

"Bar Boulud is a terrine machine, a pâté-a-palooza, dedicated to the proposition that discerning New Yorkers aren't getting nearly enough concentrated, sculptured, gelatinous animal fat, at least not of a superior caliber...

From all of these you can assemble an oversize snack or undersize meal, to be rounded out with wine from a list that's a knockout in terms of its tight focus, its enterprising selections, its elegant organization and its price range...

...all but one of the entrees on a recent menu were under $30. That’s a clue to the limited ambitions that Mr. Boulud and his executive chef, Damian Sansonetti, have for the dishes beyond the charcuterie, and that’s the context in which their efforts and output should be evaluated. Sure, there's little wow from the kitchen, which turns out treatments of salmon, sea bass and roasted chicken that, while not quite losers, are definitely snoozers."

Franktastic doesn't share in the other critics' disappointment—with the price point and the ambiance, this place was never meant to be a temple of haute French cuisine: "Daniel Boulud finding more glory in lunchtime sandwiches than in dinnertime lamb stew? It's a new era, and Bar Boulud belongs to it." [NYT]

Olana, Elettaria, Adour, and the Elsewhere, up next.>>

Adventures in Shilling #019: Rhong Tiam, Eletarria, Mad Dog & Beans

It's time for another edition of Adventures in Shilling, in which we fight shilling the best way we can, by shaming tasteless, unscrupulous shills into submission. Well, that's the plan, at least. Fight shills yourself by dropping offensive links to tips@eater.com.

The shills this week come from all the usual suspects: comments, Menupages, Yelp, and Chowhound. Some are innocuous and could even be mistaken for heartfelt accounts of decent meals. Others are obvious shills and are called out as such. But let's start with the low level offenders:

This possible shill for Elettaria from the comments is a tricky one. Yes the description is breathless, but anyone who reads Chowhound reviews on a regular basis wouldn't find this out of place: "Not sure what all the bickering is about but I think folks should travel far and wide to come to this little gem. I heard about it through the grapevine and checked it out for myself. The food was amazing. So creative. I had never had tilefish before but it was perfect. The beets and cinnamon were a great compliment to this dish. I have to hand it to these two guys. Despite the difficulty in opening new restaurants in this city, the end result seems like it went off without a hitch. It's stunning to look at and so comfortable to dine in. The wine was superb and the staff was extremely courteous and helpful with hard to identify items that ended up being amazing in whatever dish they were paired with." Shill Probability: 32%

We get into to 90% range, ahead.>>

The Week in Eater: Zak-O-Matic, Ko Unleashed, Shake Shack Hits the UWS

It's time for the Week in Eater, where we review some of the week's most interesting and newsworthy stories via a convenient and attractive photo gallery.

This week's top stories: The Pelaccionator, Good News at Elettaria, re-Deathwatching of Maremma, First Glimpses of Sheridan Square, Shake Shack UWS, Terroir Finally Opens, Momofuku Ko Mania, and Minetta Gets Bought.

Good News/Bad News: Elettaria

Krieger, 3/2/08

Either Elettaria is the best new restaurant to hit the West Village or there's a nasty internet-wide shill campaign in progress (or a little bit of both), because there is hardly any bad news out there about Akhtar Nawab's new New American. An on site Eater inspection uncovered some real spotty service, but it sounds like the people are all-around floored. Let's get to it:

1) Good-ish News: A Yelper gets in on the swooning action, with a quickly overcome caveat at the beginning: "We had late reservations, 9:45. We arrived a few minutes late, nervous that we'd missed our reservation. We didn't have to worry though because they were a 45 (FORTY FIVE) minutes late in seating us. I was a little annoyed but i understand they've only been open for two days and the staff was nice enough about it...We order foie gras and scallops and get the mackerel compliments of the house since they were so late in seating us...The tastes are balanced and the portions are just right. Its the kind of food that makes you want to slow down and close your eyes and really pay attention to whats happening in your mouth...I could have eaten the boar forever...Price-wise-- its not a place to bring a cheap date, however the food is definitely worth the price." [Yelp]

Continue reading "Good News/Bad News: Elettaria"

Eater Inside: Elettaria

Krieger, 3/2/08

Here we have Elettaria, the quickly announced and just as quickly opened West Village spot from Akhtar Nawab and partner Noel Cruz (Nawab left his post as executive chef at E.U. last month). If it looks a tad familiar, like something between Bobo and Allen & Delancey, that's because it is. It was designed by Jason Volenec of Allen & Delancey who infused a number of the accents (exposed brick walls, rustic wood beams, large plush booths, low light) from the A&D space into this new project. Heavy attention was paid to the cocktail menu, too, and mixologists from both Death & Co. and Freeman's were brought in as consultants. As far as food, Akhtar's menu, which he says is a "true extension of himself," marries South Asian spices with American dishes and ingredients.

The success of the place will most likely hinge entirely on Nawab's execution of that fusion menu. The design is there, the interest is there, and the bar scene is pretty much guaranteed. Most early reports focus on the cocktails (excellent) and include brief encounters with the food (mixed bag). As for the service, Eater spot inspections indicate they've got a ways to go. But we're only half a week in, so let's give it some time to see if Nawab can hold his own. Further reading here and here.

Thursday Opening Report: Sookk, Elettaria, Arrow Certified Open, Lomito on Friday

This is the Thursday Opening Report, a new regular feature that will provide the precise status of venues reported as open elsewhere. As per standard operating procedure around here, your contributions are so very welcome.

Arrow interior, image via Imbible

1) Soho: TONY’s got the lowdown on Lomito, a new Italian-Argentine resto from the Sosa Borella folks they list as open this week: “Cast-iron chandeliers, 20-foot ceilings and wooden trim create a dining room with a rustic-urban effect. The menu is equally laid-back, with house-made pastas, empanadas and raw-bar selections.” Status: Not Open. This Friday at 5pm. 300 Spring Street; 212-929-9494. [TONY]

2) Upper West Side: Meanwhile much further uptown, TONY also reports on the opening of Sookk, nope not a typo there, a new Asian eatery from the people behind Room Service. The menu will derive inspiration from: "the diverse Yaowarat District of Bangkok, where Thai, Szechuan and Cantonese influences converge in dishes like the Yaowarat beef soup, which combines braised beef, Goji berries and Chinese herbs in a cinnamon-spiked broth." Status: Certified Open. 2686 Broadway; 212-870-0253. [TONY]

East Village and Park Slope after the jump>>

Board Wrap: Early Reviews of Olana, Elettaria

· Early Word on Olana: Place Does Not Wow [Chowhound]
· Cocktails are Sweet, Tiki Themed at Unopened Elettaria [eGullet]
· Worst Meals Eaten Politely: Taro Cakes, Tupperware Meat, Ketchup Pasta [Serious Eats]
· On Bar Boulud: "Fries are good...Fries are good at a lot of places." [eGullet]

Monday Opening Report: NY Greenwich Steak and Burger Now Open, Terroir and Burger Shoppe Getting Close

This is the Monday Opening Report, a new regular feature that will provide the precise status of venues reported as open elsewhere. As per standard operating procedure around here, your contributions are so very welcome.

Petraske's Mercury Dime, Pre-Plywood

1) East Village: The Hearth guys’ much-delayed wine bar, Terroir, of plywood fame, was listed in NYMag’s openings this week. As for the food: “Canora is reviving some of the Italian snacks he concocted at Craftbar, like his sausage-stuffed sage leaves and a signature panino of duck ham with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and taleggio.” Status: Not Open. “Opening at the end of this week or early next week.” 413 E. 12th Street.; 646-602-1300. [NYM]

2) East Village: Sasha Petraske’s E. 5th Street project has been buzzed about for months, formerly as some Mighty Ocelot joint, a supposed beer and wine bar that was never to be (thanks to angry neighbors). According to NYMag’s Openings this week, Petraske teamed up with old friend T.J. Siegal to open The Mercury Dime, as it will be called, a coffee shop/cafe where: "Siegal plans to continue operating the café by day, with free Wi-Fi and a small menu of pastries and made-to-order sandwiches.” Status: Unknown. Listed number is out of service. 246 E. 5th Street; 212-533-3295. [NYM]

3) FiDi: The relative culinary void of Manhattan’s Financial District receives a new entry this week, (albeit just a burger joint), in the Burger Shoppe. NYMag reports on its opening with cheap eats details of: “$4 burgers, two-for-$5 hot dogs, and buttermilk-batter onion rings.” Status: Not open. Opening Friday the 29th. 30 Water Street; 212-425-1000. [NYM]

Updates, just a click away>>

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