MADISON SQ PARK— Geoffrey Zakarian announced today that he is turning his three starred (and Deathwatched) restaurant Country into a steak joint to be called Country Steak. The more casual cafe downstairs will remain in tact, but expect a full overhaul of the upstairs come this fall. The official press release explains the new take:
"The steakhouse will open on the restaurant’s second level following the annual summer hiatus in the upstairs Dining Room and replace its current multi-course tasting menu. The steakhouse menu will complement the European-Mediterranean cuisine served in both the Café at Country and each of the nine Private Event rooms...the new Country Steak kitchen will be headed by Executive Chef Willis Loughhead."Zakarian tells Mr. Cutlets that he is simply fulfilling a longtime dream of owning a steakhouse (not putting in a last ditch effort to save his restaurant):
This week's stories: Shitshows: Kobe Club, Shitshows: Ninja, Shitshows: Mr. Chow Tribeca, Shitshows: Merkato 55, Shitshows: Wakiya, The Worst Table in New York Contest, Deathwatch: Ilili, Deathwatch: Steak Frites, Deathwatch: Country

Relocating your restaurant doesn't always inject it with new life. Sure, it worked for Momofuku, but just take a look at what happened to The Tasting Room this week. We're predicting a similar fate for Steak Frites, Andrew Silverman's Union Square restaurant that he moved down to the Hudson Square Death Zone last November. Consistently a ghost town, the restaurant often has room for last minute parties of 10 at 8 o'clock. Dead giveaway right there that it belongs in the hospice. Another bad sign: executive chef Adam Greenberg left three weeks ago to "pursue other interests", and a replacement has not yet been secured. We really have nothing against you Andy, but we have no choice but to admit your project into the ICU.
· Deathwatch: Ilili [~E~]
· Deathatch: Country [~E~]
Ilili owner Philippe G. Massoud gets in the comments to defend his Deathwatched restaurant Ilili: "...ilili is both a healthy and very profitable restaurant, serving upwards of 1,200 guests per week and achieving consistently positive feedback. We are actually increasing our business month to month." [Eater Comments]

We take Deathwatching, and Shitshow Week of course, very seriously. Because it's serious business. Therefore we understand when restaurateurs aren't entirely pleased with the committee's decision and feel the need to defend themselves. In the spirit of fairness, we offered accomplished restaurateur and the owner of the recently Deathwatched Country, Geoffrey Zakarian a chance to rebut yesterday's post (this is a standing offer to all on the Deathwatch, fyi). Take it away Geoffrey.
As Mark Twain once said, “The reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated.” The same could be said of my restaurant Country’s recent addition to Eater’s “Deathwatch” list.Building up the cellar, not drawing it down,>>
The services issues at the restaurant cited in the post are more than two years old, though they did contribute to my eventual decision to overhaul the staff at Country. With the new team firmly in place, led by executive chef, Willis Loughhead, formerly of The Modern, the restaurant has seen an increase in reservations as well as an overwhelmingly positive response to the new chef’s cuisine.

If anyone has any objections, let us know. You can show your support for the venue or the deathwatch in the comments.

Geoffrey Zakarian's Country has been asking for it for quite some time now. Reaching way back, in 2006 the restaurant ruined many a couple's Valentine's Day dinner with their colossal, no epic, service screw-ups. Fast forward to '08 and we have the Bloody Skate incident from two weeks ago (hinting that perhaps someone hasn't been policing the kitchen properly), and of course, some suspect promotions. Like The Tasting Room, Country is a host of the dinner theater event "Eating Their Words." And in a desperate Memorial Day stunt, the restaurant charged customers wholesale prices for wine (showing just how much they mark it up on regular nights). According to their PR, the event was such a "success" they are going to continue serving select bottles at the stark discount year round—this, once supplies are gone, is also known as a bait and switch. Oh, and let's not forget the massive turnover here. The opening chef (Doug Psaltis), sommelier, and pastry chef are long gone. Add it all up and you have a no-brainer Deathwatch. Welcome to the hospice, Country. Your room is in the East Wing, first door on your left past reception.
· Friday Double Deathwatch: Beer Table & Burger Shoppe [~E~]
· Ladies and Gentlemen, Girls and Boys, It's Shitshow Week! [~E~]

We are just going to say right here and now that the next restaurant to come up with an outlandishly overpriced menu item as a way to "create buzz" and get coverage in the Daily News and Gothamist (serial followers of this junk) will be subject to automatic Deathwatch. We are making an example out of Beer Table, with its $95 bottles of beer, and Wall Street Burger Shoppe, with its ridiculous $175 burger, to show that we mean business. We're sorry, but each crossed the line. (And we're not completely insane: If either restaurant agrees to drop its menu item, we'll remove both venues from the Deathwatch immediately.) The gold flecked desserts, the foie gras cheesesteaks, and whatever else you other restaurateurs are cooking up— cease and desist. And Daily News, we are about five seconds away from Deathwatching your entire food section—how many more times will you fall for this pathetic routine?
· $95 of Beer on the Wall [NYDN]
· The $175 Burger is a haute handful for rarefied tastes [NYDN]
Question: When the PR team for a restaurant starts focusing almost all their energy on the downstairs club and promotes the upstairs as a bar/lounge/party spot, is said restaurant officially dead? We're going to drop the hammer and say yes and declare that FROG—which PR people are now describing as a good place for a cocktail and a party (and if you get hungry a snack)— is dead. We have to hand it to the owners and the team at Steve Hall PR for learning how to adapt and for recognizing that a failure of a restaurant can be transformed into a somewhat successful lounge and club. That, friends, is how you survive a year on the Deathwatch.
That said, the operation over at 71 Spring is not leaving the hospice just yet. We're still waiting on early reports from public, but from what we could tell from the incredibly rocky launch party/press dinner last night, they aren't in the clear. Let's get to the hangover observations. (This might get dirty so we advise the folks over at Steve Hall PR to avert their eyes.)
What's wrong, what's right, at the new FROG.>>
Les Deux Gamin, the West 10th Street restaurant that is about four seconds from closing anyway, met with the Department of Health this week and it didn't go well. They've been shuttered since April 29th, Tuesday, per the yellow stickering a West Village correspondent has sent our way. Tragically, as the corner space is theoretically quite well located, this may be the end for the restaurant. It's mostly empty most of the time, which can't be much of a motivator to get it back open. Kamali will have this place flipped in a week.
This weekend the Deathwatch Committee will be in full session, and we're accepting nominations. Send us your cold, hard reports of empty dining rooms, problematic staff changes, and suspected lease woes. This isn't about restaurants you wish would die; it's about restaurants you know will die. We will take all serious entries under consideration.--Mgmt.

Kalina, 2/06/08
To be honest, we wanted to Deathwatch this thing when we paid our first visit on opening night. Scratch that, we wanted to Deathwatch Merkato 55 when we first heard the Swedish Sensation himself Marcus Samuelsson, the big name behind the MePa monster, wouldn't be there for the opening. But now that Bruni has given it a disappointing one star, we're prepared to call it out as the doomed shitshow that it really is.
The fact that Samuelsson is hardly in the kitchen and doesn't have much invested in the restaurant besides his name isn't the main issue. The sprawling space looks and sounds more like a club than a sophisticated restaurant, and we have a hard time seeing it as a regular dinner spot for anyone outside of the club-going demographic. That Bruni called out the busboys for pouring water into his wine glass (something that happened no less than 5 times when we were there) shows that the service kinks haven't been worked out in the last two months. When we turn our attention to some reader complaints and the fact that prime resys are incredibly easy to come by, it doesn't look good. We predict the place will be turned into what it should have been from the start— a sexed up and popular Meatpacking District bar with a compelling theme and exotic cocktails.
· All Merkato 55 Coverage [~E~]

Cesare Casella and his inhouse PR call to confirm that the Maremma space is indeed on the market. But don't worry all you loyal West Village Cesare fans. You'll still be able to get his Tuscan cooking...up in Midtown. Team Maremma is "very close to closing" on a new 175 seat space in an undisclosed corner of Midtown that will be the new home for Maremma if they find a buyer for 10th St. Cesare says he's making the move because the space is bigger, it has more visibility, and it will attract more lunch crowds. That said, if there are no takers on the space, Maremma on West 10th will not close. It will remain open and they will name the new space something completely different or "Maremma Midtown". Both Cesare and his rep are quick to mention that business is booming and they have a loyal following, but are the locals loyal enough to take on Midtown?
· Deathwatch: Maremma on the Market [~E~]

We get news from a very trusted tipster today that Maremma is on the market and that at least one restaurateur has taken a look at the space. The Kamali won't give us the official confirm, but he does have this new interesting listing:
WEST VILLAGE Vicinity Restaurant & BarNow if you look at the address and the specs, it all seems to add up. Stay tuned from an official confirm from either the Cesare camp or Mr. Steven Kamali. And restaurateurs looking for a bi-level West Village space...you know who to call.
West 10th Street (off Bleecker Street)
Rent: $15,000 per month
Escalations: 3% per annum
Size: 1,800 SF Ground Floor, 1,800 SF Mezzanine, 1,800 SF Basement
7 years, plus 5 year Option
Fixture Fee: $750,000
Comments: Full Service Kitchen, Full Liquor License
Occupancy: 172 Persons

BarFry, Josh DeChellis' eight month-old deathwatched tempura bar finally and inevitably shuttered. A tipster notes that over the past few weeks the restaurant took the menus off the door and axed the lunch service, but it was just yesterday that the ominous newspapers went back up on the windows. Signs this place was doomed: the theme (novel at best), the lack of a liquor license in the early stages, and the sad last ditch effort of offering free bar food from 4 - 6 p.m. and an 11 p.m. happy hour (the stunt that put BarFry on the Deathwatch).
But don't worry too much about DeChellis. Last month it came out that he was teaming up with none other than Will Goldfarb, Zak Pelaccio, and Robert Truitt on a project called The Windsor right next door to BarFry at 48 Carmine. Pelaccio made an appearance at a CB2 meeting to get a liquor license for the place last month, and a sign on the door is directing all deliveries to BarFry.
· Deathwatch: BarFry [~E~]
· First Word: Pelaccio, DeChellis and Goldfarb Collab on The Windsor [~E~]

Today brings news of an unprecedented event for the Deathwatch Committee: the committee has decided to list former Deathwatchee Maremma. As of today, chef Cesare Casella's West Village ital is back on the Deathwatch. Née an 'Italian Cowboy' themed restaurant, it was put on the list back in September '06 and removed after a surprising 17 weeks wherein Casella removed the Western theme, started serving his own farm-raised cattle, and defied all expectations by getting some brisk business on block with little foot traffic.
Yet, it looks like things have deteriorated in the year of Maremma's remission. With the news of Casella opening a new venue coupled with the above sign stating the restaurant will be closed two days a week, sounds like gramps needs his bed back in the hospice. It's bad enough when restaurants take one day off, but we'll take it. You don't get two. It's endemic of a much larger problem, folks. Start the clock anew.
· un-Deathwatched: Maremma [~E~]
· Deathwatch: Maremma [~E~]

Nice to see them really getting in the spirit of the Deathwa—, er, holiday.
· Deathwatch: Cercle Rouge [~E~]

With the Mai House team ready to open what's sure to be one of the more hyped "street food" eateries of the fall season, Bun, at 143 Grand Street, there remains the matter of the Deathwatch paperwork on JCool, which previously occupied the space. The nitty gritty:
Deathwatchee: JCool
Status: CLOSED
Time on the 'Watch: 12 months
Prognosis/Analysis: Not one of the Deathwatch Committee's tougher calls; the 'Watch was slapped on JCool as soon as that "50% Off Our Sushi Menu" banner went up. In the end, the place existed for about 18 months. We wish the newcomers kinder karma.
· Deathwatch: JCool [~E~]

On this gloomy gray afternoon, the Deathwatch Committee has convened at Eater HQ. Restaurateurs may want to consult their priests and/or publicists before refreshing the site from here until sundown.

The original Paris Commune opened on Bleecker Street in 1979 and was a classic West Village French bistro through the 80s and 90s. The whole thing went to hell in 2004, however, when the restaurant's owners decided to move their restaurant three blocks west, giving the place a significant design overhaul and price point hike in the process. The old Paris Commune was a bustling neighborhood clubhouse; the new Paris Commune is an austere ghost town. Lessons: 1) The people go in for comfy and aged every time; sleek and polished rarely works. 2) Popularity does not always justify price increases and ambitious expansions. 3) Customers have far too many options to stay with you through these drastic-type mistakes.
Paris Commune is, tragically, done. There might be up to another year of pitiful struggle, and they've just started serving lunch, but the end, she is coming on fast.
· Paris Commune [pariscommune.net]

Let's cut right to the chase on this one. Since last summer, the Deathwatch Committee has received regular word that the large space occupied by Devin Tavern in Tribeca hasn't exactly been packing them in. (Spot check from November: "On a Wednesday evening it didn’t seem close to full.")
Then came the April shake-up, with chef Chris Dunn shown the door, and the inevitable menu revamp that followed. (Deathwatch Indicator #44: "menu revamp" followed by a "trust us" shill for the new menu in one of the men's e-dailies.) An Eater reader report from the past weekend paints a picture that isn't at all pretty:
I need to tell you about the ridiculous brunch we had at Devin Tavern yesterday. We had been there once before, before the chef was fired, and thought it was nice but the place was weirdly empty. Went back with my family yesterday afternoon, still pretty empty. We were informed when we sat down that the kitchen was out of pancakes. Odd, but whatever. Then, they were out of muffins, followed by grapefruit juice, and then celery for bloody marys. I can understand running out of certain dishes, but celery and grapefruit juice when you are literally across the street from the Food Emporium?The Deathwatch Committee's over/under: not past Labor Day.I mentioned to the server that things were different. He said bitterly, "Yes—it's very hard to smile around here." I think the space is gorgeous, so it would be a shame for it to close. But really, how much longer will this go on?

Status: DEATHWATCH
Time on the 'Watch: 13 weeks
Prognosis/Analysis: When we checked in with Mr. Chodorow's shiny meatshrine a few weeks back, the outlook was still grim. (8pm RESY, day of, on a Friday? Not good.) But there may be a strange salvation for Kobe Club that we didn't see coming. From a transcript of today's Rush Limbaugh Show, here's El Rushbo:
RUSH: I gotta tell you a funny story that happened last night. As you know, we're here in New York. I'm coming to you today from high atop the EIB Building in Midtown Manhattan. I told you about this Kobe Club steakhouse, Jeffrey Chodorow's place. I went to it two or three weeks ago when I was here, and I absolutely loved it. I had a great time. I went in there last night and they told me a slew of people have come in to check the place out.That's only the beginning of an encounter that includes Rush and President Clinton yukking it up under the samurai swords last night. Must. Read. Rest assured, the (massively frazzled) Deathwatch Committee has convened an emergency executive session.
BONUS CHODOBLOG DROUGHT WATCH: 11 weeks dry and counting.
|