The Critics: On the Blogs Archives

Good News/Bad News: Bar Boulud

Kalina, 1/4/07.

Bar Boulud, celeb chef Daniel Boulud's four week old Upper West side venture, was covered extensively during the buildup to its opening in early January. All early reports, especially those coming from attendees of the big opening night bash, were glowing. Now, it's time to check in, and, what do you know, we've got some good news and some bad news.

1) Very Good News: As reported earlier, Ed Levine is batshit crazy for this place: "Simply put, [charcutier Sylvain] Gasdon is making the best charcuterie Americans have ever seen and tasted on these shores... But are Americans ready for this kind of food?... Bar Boulud is Boulud's gutsiest endeavor to date (forgive the obvious double entendre), and also his most heartfelt." [Ed Levine Eats]

2) Bad News: While she likes the cuts of meat, the exclusivity of the bar and a majority of the dishes rub Gastro Chic the wrong way, "The front area shouldn't even be a seating area in the winter - for one thing, that's where everyone's standing around waiting. Daniel Boulud, why not put a foosball table and a TV in your bar instead?...The St. Jacques au chou, grilled Maine scallops, were disappointing. They did not seem to be overcooked, yet they were rubbery and stringy. This was particularly strange since scallops are in season now. The accompanying Orleans mustard winter slaw is a sort of sauerkraut, but ironically, I liked the Guss' Pickles sauerkraut at Fette Sau better." [Gastro Chic]

Continue reading "Good News/Bad News: Bar Boulud"

Good News/Bad News: Adour by Alain Ducasse

[Some sort of countdown clock counts on at Adour's official site]

Adour, the new restaurant from an obscure French chef by the name Alain Ducasse, officially opened last night at the St. Regis Hotel on 55th Street. With an opening like this, it's little surprise that The People were champing at the bit to get in and have their say. And so, another installment of Good News/Bad News:

1) Good News: Taking pride of place at the front of the line was this eGulleteer: "I had a very enjoyable experience at Adour last night. I was the first dinner: First, I was given a tour of the restaurant. It has a main room and two or three smaller rooms. Large wine fridges line the walls, showcasing the best from the restaurants wine collection. My dinner started with a small comte in pastry. Very nice. My first course was the hamachi sashimi with geoduck and a green apple mustard. My second course was complimentary: a slow cooked halibut with vegetables. My main course was colorado rack of lamb which was one of the few holdovers from ADNY. A cheese course followed, No cheese trolley as at ADNY. A selection of four pieces which included a vermont cheddar, an italian goat cheese and an italian sheeps milk cheese, and a tommoe de savoie. My desert was the chocolate sorbet. My wines were a rose champagne nv, a half bottle of 95 Cos, and a 1985 Graham's Port. A note on the wine list. THey present two different lists. One is more of a seasonal list. The second is the reserve list. Adour has much less pomp and circumstance as compared to ADNY. More americanized in service. The food is also not nearly as complex as at ADNY." [eGullet]

Ahead: more good news, and, alas, a little of the bad. >>



Good News/Bad News: The Smith

The Smith, from Jane and Neptune owners Glenn Harris and Jeffrey Lefcourt, is three weeks into its run in the East Village. While we do have some issues with the place, we can't help but notice the place is off to a good-to-very-good start. Here's the news, good and bad.

1) Good News/Bad News: "Not sure if you're planning a good news/bad news or anything for The Smith, but I dropped by last night and have these thoughts: Décor is very Pizzeria Uno meets Schiller's, with more boobs on the walls. I've never been to Jane, so I'm not sure if this is a copy of it, but the Schiller's look is unmistakable. Like what they did with t he Pizzeria Uno bathroom dungeon on the lower floor. They opened it up, added a photo booth and are doing that whole 5 unisex mini bathrooms lined up, with giant sinks right outside thing. Cocktail menu is superb, including the rye whiskey/apple cordial/jalapeno drink I had that is called, I think, "I just paid $9 for this tiny little drink but it tastes really awesome so whatevs." Menu is a little random--not sure who is coming in to order a tomato soup, steak and bibimbop. The beer-battered string beans are awesome, and lightly fried enough for you to not feel horrible about yourself for eating them. Soundtrack is very yupster (Postal Service, Stone Roses) which is appropriate for the location. Remember, this is more NYUville than East Village proper. And then the coup de grace: the ice cream sundae menu. Wow!!! That's what it's all about, in the end." [Eater Inbox]

Excellent just about all the way around. The bar steak was chewey and inedible. >>

Good News/Bad News: Allen & Delancey

Kalina, 10/5/07.

Allen & Delancey is a week-plus into its run on the Lower East Side. Though the opening of the venue was delayed by a full year, and there was a very serious chef shuffle from Aktar Nawab to Neil Ferguson along the way, the restaurant is now open. With a high profile opening kicking this one off, we'd expect there to be at least a few early-on haters in the group. But, in this rare, credit-where-it's-due, good news only version of Good News/Bad News, it looks like chef Fergie has the place on track.

1) Good News: "We had the hamachi, terrine, leeks, bone marrow and raviolo. The bone marrow and terrine with the hands down winners...Overall, given they have been open for a little over a week, it was a pretty amazing meal. The service was spot on, and the kitchen was definitely firing on all cylinders. I highly recommend going before it becomes impossible to get a reservation." [eGullet]

Continue reading "Good News/Bad News: Allen & Delancey"

Good News/Bad News: BarFry

Kalina, 9/17/07.

And, now, a post about Barfry, Josh DeChellis's new West Village deep fryer. The place has been open just a month now and it's been a bit of a dicey month at that. First, we should say, the venue does have big time fans. If Sietsema says the tempura is good, it's good. But, here, some good news and some bad news—today with bonus annotation—coming your way.

1) Bad News: BarFry took several extra weeks to get its liquor paperwork in order. No booze license combined with misinformed servers equals trouble. Email date-stamped Tuesday: "Barfry...a word of warning: Wonderful service-Phenomenal food-$20 corkage fee. They've got to be kidding. "Are they penalizing customers for not having wine?" [Eater Inbox]

2) Good News: When BarFry PR was informed of said issues, by us, yesterday, they had a top-notch shill standing by. It's not officially a shill in that the PR refuses to take credit for their handy work, but let's be clear: this baby is a shill. The following email arrived with remarkable speed, after our query was filed: "Walked by Barfry (50 Carmine St) yesterday and they were open and packed and (thankfully) the hostess told me they finally have their liquor license! Also Markt Table two doors down was packed as well. We ate lunch their Monday and they were nice enough to give my cell phone a ring when a table opened (I work around the corner) since they were packed for lunch. Service was very hospitable and accommodating (the opposite of Shopsin’s who had the space prior)." Sidebar good news: BarFry does now have a liquor license. [Eater Inbox]

Continue reading "Good News/Bad News: BarFry"

IMterview: The New Fiamma

Kalina, 5/17/02.

The biggest opening of the fall that we can't muster the energy to care about is the re-opening of Fiamma, Steve Hanson's money-maker-disguised-as-fine-restaurant in Soho, with serious chef Fabio Trabocchi now installed in the kitchen. New York has the restaurant opening today, and the BR Guest site confirms that public previews begin tonight. Here's a report from last week's friends and family tastings, should you be curious.

eaterhq: so, the new fiamma?
iheartchefs: I don't hate the space.
iheartchefs: Do you remember AZ? Patricia Yeo's original place?
iheartchefs: that was also upstairs.
eaterhq: And how about chef Fabio Trabocchi?
iheartchefs: dinner was lovely. not the A+ it was in DC, but that's understandable. I ate in DC when he was solidly in the zone. He's just getting into NYC.
eaterhq: got it
iheartchefs: but some of it is home run.
iheartchefs: he'll end up one of NYC's best.
eaterhq: outlandish prediction, check.
iheartchefs: : you want more?
eaterhq: : yes, please
iheartchefs: this may seem silly, but the plates and serving pieces are stunning. very italian, in terms of what the best chefs in italy are doing right now.
eaterhq: this was a friends and family?
iheartchefs: his tuna carpaccio is a poem. stupendous. bite-sized squares of ahi tuna topped with oysters.
iheartchefs: I think so, yes, re: f&f
iheartchefs: and his carpaccio done two ways is also marvelous.
iheartchefs: I loved it, but I was with my friend Suzanne who is not a food person the way we are and she was rolling her eyes with joy.
iheartchefs: lobster ravioli was amazing. big pieces of lobster, and one overstuffed ravioli.
iheartchefs: ok i'm done for now

· Fiamma [BR Guest]

Chodoblogging: Chodorow Gives Bruni Top Edit, Doesn't Say Critic was Wrong

The chod-o-blog lives again, fired-up anew by its crazy namesake Jeffrey Chodorow as a result of Frank Bruni's one-star review of Wild Salmon, Chodorow's newest restaurant, a midtown homage to the Pacific Northwest. Of interest today, other than the basic fact that the blog sputters on once more, is that Chodorow, who normally uses the blog to pound his critics, especially Bruni, doesn't really say that Bruni's take on his restaurant was wrong. The post is dedicated to a writing lesson:

I think the ultimate purpose of a review is to educate the public about a restaurant, not just to be entertaining. While I understand his predisposition to do so with his writing, I feel that some important facts were sorely missed. In my ideal world, the following would have been the first three paragraphs of the review (or something to this effect):

The Pacific NW is one of the great food regions of this country, yet a food region which appears to be largely undiscovered outside of its boundaries. It is a region of tremendous bounty--there are truly wild salmon; an array of shellfish including varieties of clams, mussels, oysters, shrimp, prawns and crab; the infamous black cod; and numerous varieties of fish, all of which are found only in the Pacific NW...

The rest of the review could remain, more or less, intact.

Are you writing this stuff down, Mr. Bruni? Next time, more shill, less critique.
· Wild Salmon [chod-o-blog]
· Chodorow Declares War on Wells, Debuts Blog in Full-Page Times Ad [~E~]

Adventures in Shilling #010: Yushi Bento Bar

It's time now for another edition of Adventures in Shilling, in which we fight shilling the best way we can, by shaming tasteless, unscrupulous shills into submission. Well, that's the plan, at least.

Midtown Lunch, a partner in shill prevention, writes us about some suspicious comments on his post regarding Yushi Bento Bar. His own investigation yields the following: "They are all written from the exact same IP address. So, either four people from the same office all LOVE yushi enough to comment, or they've sicked their hounds onto my site." Oh, boy.

First up:

i am so psyched. I ate lunch here twice last week and twice this week and every dish has been great. I still have not had the same thing twice and the different salad dressing are all so flavorful. I can’t believe this concept hasn’t been opened before, but Yushi is fantastic. A friend told me they have a few great hot dinner bentos and I look forward to trying them too. I am going to tell everyone to try it, because the whole experience is great. try a crushie too, I had the frosty fruit, and it was better then anything at Jamba.

Shill Probability: 100%

Continue reading "Adventures in Shilling #010: Yushi Bento Bar"

Greene: "It may take a village to iron out the wrinkles at Le Cirque."

Gael Greene, via Insatiable Critic, runs a Mack truck straight through the dining room of Le Cirque today, citing myriad problems with the restaurant from 'medicinal' gazpacho to an atrophying crowd. In not so many words she's calling for a Deathwatch of the Sirio Maccioni's society clubhouse. With Hal Rubestein chiming in:

Indeed, it may take a village to iron out the wrinkles at Le Cirque. Hal Rubenstein has been on the case, too. Rubenstein, no longer a restaurant critic, now moonlights fulltime from his editor’s swivel chair at InStyle as a restaurant consultant. “Sirio needs a lot of help,” Hal told me after landing in Tucson, having done a day’s worth of writing on the plane. Always a demon of energy, Hal not only looks like a comic book super hero, he multitasks like one. “Sirio’s a terrific man. He just got off track. The new chef is not formed yet. The room, the décor, all of it needs work.”

More on Le Cirque, the abortion. >>

Adventures in Shilling #009: In Our Own Backyard

Welcome back to Adventures in Shilling, our regular feature on the practically-national pastime of bullshit artistry. Today, we need not look far for our shills. With Eater Commenters at full-tilt, so, too, are the shillers (note: not to be confused with The Schillers). First, up, a shill from Landmarc, which was allowed because its shill probability came in just under a disqualifying 80%:

Why is it every reviewer keeps missing three important tips for Landmarc diners?: 1. Brunch lets you choose from an expansive breakfast menu plus the already expansive lunch menu. This approaches Shopsins-like territory for menu selection. 2. Said brunch breakfast/lunch menu is also available for very large groups. Thus no fixed menu requirement...which is a big plus vs. the strings most others make you pull when you want to being in 12+ people. 3. On the brunch menu, the pain perdu is one big hunk of deliciousness. This towering piece of bread (must be 4" wide, 5" long, 4" tall) is supposedly soaked overnight in milk, eggs, and rum among other things. The result is a nicely flavored, crisp on the outside (sometimes too crispy...steak knife anyone?) / gooey on the inside piece of breakfast heaven. The reviewers seem to cover the negatives, which I happen to agree with for the most part, fairly well.

Shill Probability: 78%

Continue reading "Adventures in Shilling #009: In Our Own Backyard"

The Chod-o-Blog Lives, Follows Platt, Keeps it Crazy!

Jeffrey Crazypants Chodorow quietly posted to his blog last week, and what a post it was. He takes on Adam Platt, of course, who'd just had his way with Wild Salmon. The Jeffinator reads the Platt review, presents self with two options. Option A: Maybe Platt has a point or two, maybe Wild Salmon could do better. Option B: Adam Platt is insane. Looks like he picked option B:

Putting aside the fact that he missed the entire point of the restaurant--a place that celebrates one of the great "undiscovered" food and wine regions of the United States and which also happens to be the first authentic Pacific N.W. restaurant outside of the Pacific Northwest, with virtually every product flown in fresh from that region. Adam Platt cannot even distinguish the difference in taste between two remarkably different tasting fish, Sockeye salmon and Wild King salmon. In fact, he even goes so far as to quote an apparent expert on the subject (a friend with a fish-affinity) calling salmon "the Cheerios of restaurant food." What does that even mean? Worse yet, he doesn't even mention the unique wine list featuring wines from that region, many of which have never been offered here before, or the incredible microbrews (from one of the great artisanal microbrew areas of the country). Eater.com is right on this one (though not usually), he is incapable of giving me a good review.

We just left in that last sentence, because we like to share our joy in having gotten a backhanded compliment from the J-Dog, who went shill crazy just in case any potential customers read the blog.

More Chodorow! More! Up next. >>

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