Right before the 2014 Michelin Guide to France is set to be released, a French restaurant critic is criticizing the guide's leadership. Gilles Pudlowski used his column in Le Point to take a look at the "bizarre promotions" of current director Michael Ellis and company, examining the supposedly leaked 2014 French stars. (Leaked by Le Point, it should be noted.)
Pulowski specifically questions the choice to bump Arnaud Lallement's L'Assiette Champenoise outside of Reims to three star status. He calls the restaurant "an excellent two star" but suggests some may prefer Reims chef Philippe Mille's Les Crayères. While Pudlowski calls Ellis' decision to promote younger chefs "commendable," he asks "But is that any reason to forget to crown renowned chefs?"
Pudlowski says Michelin's been in trouble for awhile now, writing that it's been years since the guide had "undisputed jurisdiction." "Can't they find any French people to run this guide?" he asked the Guardian. In any case, the world will see whether the leaked stars were accurate and if Pudlowski's fears were warranted when Michelin announces the French stars on February 24.
· Pudlowski : le Michelin a perdu sa boussole [Le Point via the Guardian]
· All Michelin Coverage on Eater [-E-]