The NYT's Pete Wells files on Paul Liebrandt's buzzy Williamsburg spot the Elm, which would be "just like a hundred other restaurants if not for Mr. Liebrandt." And he's impressed: Dishes that sound "ominous" by name are actually "lovely," arriving with names like "Flavors of Bouillabaisse" and "Summer Garden. Ultimately, Liebrandt "has tied one hand behind his back and made that seem like an advantage." Two stars. [NYT]
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