Village Voice critic Robert Sietsema declares war on upselling when a waiter tries to trick him into buying a particular bottle without telling him the price: "An odd apprehension occurred to me, so I called for the wine list anyway, to which he reacted in crestfallen and insolent silence....I asked him to point to the bottle. Sure enough, the grapes he'd supposedly picked were for the most expensive California wine on the list, at $150. [VV]
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