Krieger, 2/19/08

Expectations in the neighborhood are running high for Commerce, the newest restaurant to open at 50 Commerce Street, in the old West Village carriage house that was once occupied by a speakeasy, Grange Hall, and Blue Mill Tavern. The new owners Tony Zazula and chef Harold Moore had the whole place restored to bring back the vibe of the Grange Hall, and while opinions vary as to how successful they've been, serious work money went into the tiling, murals, and overall design. See also, the layered intricacy of the ceiling.

Now, early reports from around the opening two weeks ago skew negative, but complaints seems to weigh heavy on the service (easy to fix), not the design or menu (less easy to fix). The early buzz notwithstanding, Commerce will work if the house can learn how to coddle locals. At present, other than the service issues, lighting is at times severe and the menu really doesn't have an escape plan dish (say, a burger). Plus, see photos, there's a tale of two restaurants happening here—is it a Montrachet-like stage for Moore (above) or a neighborhood canteen (two below)? Hard to say; but she's got the history and looks to sustain, so let's see what the kids can do.

Further reading in the archives and here.

Filed under Eat: Eater Inside, Manhattan: West Village, Commerce, Eater Insisde

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